Traditional Clothing @ Korea

TRADITIONAL SOUTH KOREAN CLOTHING

Courtesy of Seo, Young-Ae Traditional Korean clothing has its roots extending back at least as far as the Three Kingdoms Period (57 B.C. - 668 A.D.). The Korean hanbok represents one of the most visible aspects of Korean culture.

Hanbok can be classified into ceremonial and everyday dress, each of which can be further classified by gender, age and season. All types of hanbok are created beautifully through combinations of straight and slightly curved lines. 

Women's hanbok in particular are recognized worldwide for the simple yet delightful harmony of their short jackets and full skirts. The jacket, which is put on one arm at a time, makes the upper body look very small, while the skirt worn wrapped around the waist makes the lower body look full, creating an attractive balance. The cut and drape of the clothing complements not only the Korean female physique but also flatters and fits most other body types as well.

THE BEAUTIES OF HANBOK

The beauty of hanbok is found in the elegant flow of its lines and in its pleasing color palette. The hanbok's attractiveness even shines through in the lovely lines created by the body's movement while wearing it – one of the reasons it enjoys such global attention. The hanbok is typically defined as having "eight beauties," as described below.

1. Beauty of structure

The women's hanbok, with its short jacket (Jeogori) paired with a full skirt, possesses a simple structural beauty and rhythmic flow that complement the body's movements.

2. Beauty of form

The hanbok radiates a natural physical beauty in its attractive silhouette and lines, which allow for unrestrained movement of the body.

3. Beauty of creativity

Hanbok is made with flat fabric in a linear shape that only achieves dimensionality when it is worn on the body. When placed on the human frame, the hanbok takes on a life of its own – one that is natural, elegant and flowing.

4. Beauty of harmony

The hanbok features straight and curved lines, giving it an attractive flow representative of a uniquely Korean aesthetic. The graceful, harmonious movement that happens when the hanbok is actually worn is praised the world over.

5. Beauty of color

Hanbok colors are decided according to the "five colors theory" ("obangsaek" in Korean), which refers to the theory of yin and yang and the five elements. The hanbok commonly makes striking use of naturally-occurring colors. Hanbok fabric dyed with organic ingredients.

6. Beauty of nature

One of the hanbok's most eye-catching features found in its full and loose shape, rhythm, and irregular proportions when worn, has a natural angle devoid of artificiality that creates a free-flowing effect and brings out the texture of the natural, hand-woven fabric.

7. Beauty of empty space

Some aspects of the hanbok design are left intentionally "empty," to be filled by the wearer uniquely, giving the hanbok a depth not commonly seen in clothing.

8. Beauty of personal character

The full shape of the hanbok emphasizes the wearer's authority and dignity. While this may have been impractical, it was nevertheless a feature that made hanbok a reflection of social status and propriety. Certain hanbok designs represented the social ranking of the wearer. The king, for example, was represented by the dragon and the queen by the phoenix. Tiger designs were used to represent military officials and were commonly placed on the shoulders, fronts and backs of their court robes. Civil officials were represented by the crane, an animal believed to be pure and resilient.

CLOTHING MATERIALS

Fabrics

Because of the diverse weather conditions, clothes have been made from hemp, ramie, cotton muslin, silk, and satin.

Cooler weather demanded heavier fabric, lined with fur in the northern regions, while summer clothes used thinner materials that allowed breezes to cool the body.

In the autumn, many women would wear clothes of gossamer silk because it gave a rustling sound while walking that is similar to walking through dry leaves.

Colors

White represents purity, integrity, and chastity, and was the most common color for common clothes.

The upper class and court figures wore clothes in red, yellow, blue, and black in addition to white.

These colors, symbolize the five traditional elements in Oriental cosmology (fire, earth, water, metal, and wood). Dyes were made from natural materials such as flowers or bark.

Sewing and Embroidery

In traditional times, a woman's skills in sewing and embroidering showed her devotion and caring for her family.

Norigae, a form of Korean macrame, has been a popular hobby among wives and unmarried girls for years.

CHILDREN'S CLOTHING

Every day children's clothes were designed to keep babies warm. Families dressed their child in bright clothes and quilted socks for his or her first birthday (Tol), a tradition that has continued to the present day. The clothes for the dol include a cheonbok (long blue vest) worn over a durumangi and a bokkeon (black hat with a long tail). Words and symbols related to children were sewn onto the fabric. Originally, the clothes were only for sons of the yangban class. Eventually, the custom and costume spread to other classes and included daughters as well, but with a different style of clothing.

MEN'S CLOTHING

Cheogori and Paji

Men's cheogori were generally longer than their women's counterparts, reaching down to the waist or even lower. Like the women's version, they are tied across the chest in front. The earliest versions of the paji had narrow legs to facilitate horseback riding and hunting. However, a more agrarian society dictated wider legs to facilitate squatting in the fields. The baggier pants are also more comfortable for sitting on floors than narrower pants.

Dop'o

The dop'o was a scholar's overcoat used from the middle of the Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910), although commoners could also wear it for family rites or other special occassions. It was worn over other articles of clothing.

Hakch'angui

This style of clothing was worn by scholars during the Koryo (918-1392) and Chosun (1392-1910) periods. Hak means "study" in Korean, and the style symbolizes a sublime, noble mind.

Shimui

These clothes were worn by scholars during their free time. The name came from the feeling that people had when looking at the clothes. "Shim" means to ponder or contemplate. Similar to hakch'angui, shimui represents a more passive state than actively studying.

T'eol Magoja

The magoja was originally Manchurian clothing. It became popular in Korea after Deawongun, one of the most famous political figures of the late Chosun dynasty, returned from seclusion in Manchuria wearing the clothing. It was used to keep the body warm and was considered a luxury.

Jignyeongp'o

This robe-like clothing first appeared during the Koryo period (918-1392) and was worn by low-level government officials. From the Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910), the clothes were also worn by commoners.

FEMALE CLOTHING

Chogori and Ch'ima

The earliest versions went all the way to the hips and were tied at the waist. By the late Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910), they only went as far as the arm pits, with a longer front panel to cover the breasts. Dongchong (detachable paper collars) help accent the woman's neck. Like the men's version, they are tied across the chest in front with a bow.

The ch'ima is a rectangular or tubular skirt with a high, pleated waistband. It is tied above the breasts with long sashes. By flowing over the rest of the body, it completely hides the female shape, strongly influenced by the Confucian society. Like the wide-legged paji for males, the billowing ch'ima allows a great deal of freedom for squatting, the preferred position when doing most household chores.

Durumagi

A durumagi is worn over regular clothes for warmth during cold weather. Although originally worn by government officials and royalty as everyday attire, commoners began wearing them for special occasions.

Gat-chogori     

A gat-chogori was slightly bigger than an average chogori, but had rabbit fur lining the inside to keep the body warm. The outside layer was made of silk.

Changot

Noble class females of the late Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910) wore a changot to cover their face and upper body whenever they went out in public. Similar to the ssukae ch'ima worn by women of lower classes. Hiding the face created a mysterious look.

Ssukae Ch'ima

Women wore this cloak-like clothing during the Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910) whenever they went out in public. Although shaped like a ch'ima, it was about 30 centimeters shorter and somewhat narrower. Depending on the season, it either had two layers or was patched with cotton. The white collar could be pinched in to hide ones face when a male approached.

Undergarments

Women would sometimes wear several layers of undergarments. Sok ch'ima (similar to petticoats) helped give a female's hanbok a fuller appearance.

References

Life in Local, Inc. Retrieved from http://www.lifeinkorea.com/culture/clothes/clothes.cfm

Antique Alive. Hanbok (Traditional Korean Clothing) – a beautiful cultural treasure worn on the body. Retrieved from http://www.antiquealive.com/Blogs/Hanbok_Traditional_Korean_Clothing.html